Crossroads…

Giving, Spirituality, Uncategorized4 Comments

We are at a crossroads, people. The United States of America is at a crossroads. From here we can either make our world better…or worse. I’m praying for better. But that will require some effort.

People aren’t listening to each other anymore, at least not as much as we used to. As soon as someone with a differing opinion begins to speak (or post on Facebook), we stop listening and start thinking about what we can say to shut them down and make them feel stupid. This “positioning” we’ve been doing has led to a watershed moment in our country’s history.

For years, a growing number of people in the United States have felt unheard and invisible. As they grew more and more angry with feeling that way, they began to look for someone who promised to stand up for them, someone who, through sheer force of will, could make people listen. And someone came along. Someone who promised to blow up politics from the inside out. Someone explosive enough and dismissive enough to insult and demean all alternate viewpoints equally, basically bullying his way into power. Now, that man is the President. Like it or not, that’s the way it is.

So…where do we go from here?

We need a new tactic. I vote that we stop complaining, and start taking care of each other. Stop shutting people down, and start listening. We need to stop being so angry. If we take the time to pay attention to our heartbeat and our breathing until we’re calm, we can listen to each other, really listen — without judgement.

Start small. As you pass a homeless person on the street, look them directly in the eyes and smile…Remind them that they are not invisible. Or the next time you have a really great waiter, tip them an extra ten or twenty bucks — enough to make their day. Stop multi-tasking and start looking people in the eye when they talk to you. If you see a couple of policemen having lunch in a restaurant, pay their tab. Think of one simple way to make someone smile. Then do it again…over and over. You’ll be amazed at how much better you start to feel when you stop thinking about yourself all the time — and begin thinking about others.

We need to find tangible ways to look out for one another. And start sharing those ideas with our friends. Once we are responsive and not simply reactive, we can change the world. We can make it better, stronger, softer — simply by controlling the one thing we can control…our own actions.

I’ve had to be careful with my own behavior since the election. I didn’t want to pour more fuel onto the fire. We’ve had enough of that already. I had to step back for a while, reach out for the best part of myself. Only when I was calm enough, could I write something that might actually help, rather than hurt.

I finally realized that right now we have an opportunity to become more conscious, to step up and demand more of ourselves. It’s becoming increasing clear that this new administration is going to give us all a chance to practice looking out for each other. We need to rise to the occasion and look for ways to ease each other’s burdens whenever and wherever we can.

How?  We need to stop thinking about what we don’t have — and start channelling what we do.

Donate…but not to a political cause. Not to a church’s agenda. Not to a divisive group. We’ve had enough division. Do your own research or ask advice, but make sure it is a charity that spreads kindness and not judgement. Search for a place to contribute that speaks to your heart, not your anger. Find a way to give voice to the voiceless. Take the time to see people for who they are and what they are going through — and love them for that. That’s how we make America great again. That phrase should not be a campaign slogan…It’s a call to compassion.

Step up and DO SOMETHING GOOD. If you can’t give money, give your time, your energy or your talents: bake, teach, tutor, volunteer. Give something of yourself. Give until you feel it.

SHORT ON IDEAS?

If you want to change the trajectory of a child’s life, simply let them know that they are seen…that they matter. It’s easier than you think. Call the principal’s office of an inner-city school near you and ask what they need. It might be as simple as school uniforms or sporting equipment, a musical instrument or craft supplies. If you’re up for a long-term commitment, you could mentor a child through Big Brothers-Big Sisters of America.

Animal shelters are always desperate for volunteers, supplies and funds…always. Offer your time, donate money or just call them and ask how you can help. Cleaning supplies, old towels, pet beds, kitty litter, food, collars and leashes are always a blessing to these places. Even an old washing machine might make all the difference. You’ll never know unless you ask.

If you want to help people rebuild their lives, donate clothes, supplies, toys or food to a shelter for abused women and children. Take one day to help Habitat for Humanity build someone a new home. If you have a soft spot for veterans, help them get back on their feet by donating to the DAV (Disabled American Veterans Charitable Service Trust).

Take new toys and books over to a children’s hospital in your area. Buy bagels and coffee for your local firehouse or police precinct. Send a care package to a soldier away from his family.

Want to do three things at once? Donate to Puppies Behind Bars. They take shelter pups, train them with the help of inmates and give them new lives as service dogs. So with one donation, you are saving a life, lowering the rate of recidivism in the prison population and giving someone the service dog they need. (They also have a perfect score with Charity Navigator.)

We need to become Global Citizens. Sometimes we need to be reminded that the United States isn’t the only country on earth. It’s important to learn facts about other cultures and other religions rather than judging them simply because they are different. Start researching global charities like Heifer International, International Children’s Fund, and Animal Aid International.

How about a new Christmas tradition?  Set aside whatever money your family can afford for one very special Christmas gift: $50, $100, $1,000. Think of something extraordinary to do with that money that will help ease someone’s burden. Make sure that it’s something that will make you smile every time you think about it and then use the money for that. (One year, I went to Costco and bought about $500 worth of pet supplies and dropped all of it off at different shelters around town. I still smile when I think of that.) Then write what you did down on paper, wrap it like a present and put it under the tree. Then, let the family open it together on Christmas morning. I guarantee that they will all remember it long after they’ve forgotten their other gifts.

Let’s change the world for the better…one moment at a time.

I’m game. Are you?

NOTES:

Charity Navigator is an excellent resource for checking out the financial responsibility and transparency of a charity. Here is the link to their website: http://www.charitynavigator.org

Puppies Behind Bars: http://www.puppiesbehindbars.com/home

The DAV – Disabled American Veterans Charitable Service Trust: https://www.dav.org

Habitat for Humanity: http://www.habitat.org

Heifer International: https://www.heifer.org

International Children’s Fund: https://www.icfaid.org

Animal Aid Unlimited: http://animalaidunlimited.org

Goa…The Garden of Eden? Maybe.

The People, Uncategorized, Vacation Spots in IndiaWrite a comment

They say a picture is worth a thousand words, but I’m not a photographer. Since I’m a writer, I’ll have to try to give you a feel of Goa through story-telling. That’s a difficult task when describing a place as unspoiled and contradictory as Goa. It is at once rugged and refined, relaxing and exciting, dangerous and healing, casual and glamorous — the perfect blend of jungle and ocean, city and beach.

The Indian Ocean is the star. Sparkling in the sunlight, its crystal clear water is the perfect temperature, and the waves are just the right size. You slowly wade into the water, and then sooner or later, you forget to be an adult, and you start splashing in the waves like a little kid on summer vacation. It’s fun…really fun. The southern beaches are pristine and undisturbed. There are very few tourists in South Goa, so it feels almost deserted this time of year. Walking on the soft, warm, white sand of those beaches make you feel as if they are yours and yours alone.

The people are kind and loving, and the level of pampering is among the highest of any place I’ve ever been. We stayed at the Taj Exotica in South Goa. It feels kind of like an old plantation house in Africa: low ceilings, hardwood beams everywhere, almost no walls along the outside of the main building. The floors are all marble, and the furnishings look like something Ernest Hemingway would use in his den. You can almost picture him there…sitting on one of the sofas, scribbling on an old legal pad. It’s a masculine hotel, but comfortable, and the people that represent the hotel cater to your every need. They are sympathetic and kind, and they go out of their way to make you feel at home.

There was a huge international summit descending on the hotel the week after our visit, so the construction noise was considerable. Indira, the sales manager for the hotel, was simply wonderful at navigating the difficulties of that situation. She made us feel utterly cared for and listened to, which was hard for her I’m sure, with all that banging and sawing going on day and night.

We were lucky enough to book a villa with a beautiful little back garden and private pool, and Indira made sure it was overlooking the golf course, far away from the noise at the main house. Thank God for her…She saved our vacation. We watched the sun set into the ocean from our little garden paradise, and thanked God for letting us have this weekend away to recharge and reconnect. Mumbai is busy and crazy and loud. Goa is none of those things. It is the perfect antidote to chaos, and we needed it.

To help us relax, we booked massages at the Jiva Spa at the Taj Exotica for the first and second day of our stay. The massage therapists were absolutely wonderful. The stress of the last six weeks just melted away onto the floor as we trusted Jenny, Grace and Lids to take of us. They started the spa treatment the traditional Indian way, with a ritual foot bath in oil and rose petals, warmed in a water-filled brass basin. Yes, it is as beautiful as it sounds. While massaging in the oil, they explain that in India, guests are considered equal to gods, hence the ritual foot bathing. Then came the massage, perfect pressure, long strokes, complete relaxation and muscle repair. Then, at the end, they gift you with a garland of white flowers. As they hang the blossoms around your neck, they tell you that the flowers are to honor and respect the divinity within you. I’ll admit, I cried when they said that. It’s been quite a while since I have felt like any part of me was divine. (Sometimes, God tells you exactly what you need to hear EXACTLY when you need to hear it the most.)

We rented a car for the day to get away from the construction at the hotel. An interesting thing about driving around Goa, there are cows wandering literally everywhere, on all the streets and highways. Why? A law was passed that has forbidden farmers to slaughter cows for meat, so rather than continue to feed them, all the farmers just let them loose. As you are driving along the winding roads, you’ll see three or four cows lying on one side of the street, just catching some sun. You’ll see dozens of them walking leisurely along, nibbling on the grass that grows along the side of the road. They tell me it’s very dangerous, but I thought it was kind of wonderful — like a mass pardon of execution, where all the cows are just free to roam around all day…doing what they like…eating what they like. I loved it.

For the most part we avoided the jungle. King cobras like to live there, so we gave them a wide berth. Instead, we drove to the Sahakari Spice Farm for a private tour and lunch that was so much fun. On the tour, you see how peppercorns grow on climbing vines, crawling their way up different trees. You pick fresh allspice leaves from their bushes and bite into them, getting that heady taste of “everything, all at once.” You nibble on raw turmeric and see large, cocoa pods hanging from trees. You bite the leaves of a clove plant and taste that wonderful memory of Christmas — oranges decorated with cloves, just like your mother used to make. Leon even ate a peri-peri pepper off a bush. It was wonderful to see so many of the spices we use, blooming on the vine in their natural state. And the lunch was delicious. All in all, a really fun morning.

The highlight of the spice plantation was getting to spend time with the gorgeous elephants that lived there: a mother and her daughter. (The father died last year at the age of 75.) I know that some touristy places abuse their elephants, but these seemed very happy. We saw the mother getting a spa treatment in the river from her handler. She looked just as blissed out as we did at the spa in our hotel.

We fed her, petted her, then nuzzled up and took photos with her. There is something so special, so spiritual about being that close to that large an animal, looking in their eyes and feeling the intelligence and kindness of them when you’re only inches away. It was a tiny, perfect miracle to have that moment with her, and I’ll cherish it forever.

Of course we saw Old Goa with its beautiful cathedrals and churches. I think the most powerful part of Old Goa is Saint Augustine’s Tower. It’s a breathtaking ruin of a cathedral tower, convent and hospital that has since been reclaimed by the earth on which it was built. When you are walking through the ruins of Saint Augustine’s, you realize it’s a place lost in time. Everywhere you look, long grass has overtaken the walls and tower. Tiny, white flowers push their way right out of the bricks. Moss blooms over every remnant of the structure. It feels as though you are in Nature’s Cathedral, and you are so grateful for having been invited in.

Having seen the best of Old Goa, we went to see the most sparkly part — the jewelry stores. Oh my…There are no words. We went to Exotic Gems near the Leela Hotel, and I tried on some of the most gorgeous jewelry I’ve ever seen…Mogul gems that would make a princess blush. I fell in love with a HUGE emerald, lotus-style ring, surrounded by diamonds. I still think about that ring and smile.

Our visit to Goa was short, but full. We listened to live music while we ate lunch at the Fisherman’s Wharf. We played in the Indian Ocean and kissed under the stars. We got to pet and hand-feed the most beautiful elephant I have ever seen. We walked arm-in-arm through the beautiful ruins and sipped cocktails in a gorgeous open lounge over the river surrounded by beauty…just listening to the rain on the water while we talked and talked. There is so much to love about this place. I beg you, if you are ever visiting India, give yourself the gift of time in Goa. You will be changed forever by the rugged beauty of this place. I can hardly wait to visit again…and again…and again.

* For more information on the Taj Exotica hotel:
https://www.tripadvisor.in/Hotel_Review-g306994-d477574-Reviews-Taj_Exotica_Goa-Benaulim_Salcette_District_Goa.html
* For more about the Sahakari Spice Farm: http://www.sahakarifarms.com
* To take a peek at what Exotic Gems has to offer: http://exoticgems.org
* To learn more about the Leela Hotel in Cavelossim where we had cocktails with a view of the river: https://www.tripadvisor.in/Hotel_Review-g775971-d481825-Reviews-s1-The_Leela_Goa-Cavelossim_Goa.html
* And finally, for more about Goa in general: http://www.goatourism.gov.in

For a Gorgeous, Italian Date Night in Mumbai, go to Romano’s…

The Glorious Food, The People, UncategorizedWrite a comment

Who knew that you could move all the way to India and still discover beautiful Italian food almost as good as you find in Rome? I would never have guessed it…not until last week. Purely by accident, we stumbled across a fantastic Italian place called Romano’s. In my opinion, it is the best-kept secret of Mumbai’s restaurant scene. (Tripadvisor loves it so much that it ranked Romano’s #2 out of all 13,362 restaurants in Mumbai.)

This beautiful restaurant is black, sleek and modern with retro chandeliers, dark woods and geometric stained glass windows…the perfect blend of elegant and casual.

Now let me go on record saying I love real Italian food. Not American-Italian, but the kind of fresh pastas, light sauces, delicate seafoods and lovely cheeses that Italy is truly famous for. Romano’s delivers all this and more. This dedication to classic food, cooked in the Italian-style is a remarkable achievement here in Mumbai, where Indian spices and heavy flavors work their way into almost every other type of cuisine.

Indian sauces are thick and heavy, the food intense and heavily spiced. Indian food is a delicious assault to all your senses at once…like the city itself. For those reasons, I thought that a restaurant in India would not know how to make the most of the delicate and subtle, light, clean flavors of true Italian food.  I need not have worried.

The large, open kitchen creates some of the the best Italian dishes we’ve had outside Italy. Romano’s creates beautiful food, consistent in quality and always served with warmth and genuine kindness. From the moment you walk in, you feel that everyone there wants your evening to be something you will remember forever.

We had the great fortune to meet the food and beverage Executive for the hotel that houses Romano’s, a man named Marsh Kinny. Marsh is the kind of restaurant manager you dream about. He is open, informative, friendly, smart and has the kind of devotion to detail and gift for multi-tasking that supervising multiple restaurants requires.

Everything in this restaurant was designed to make visitors there feel as if they’d had a singular experience. They imported their head chef from Italy. His name is Roberto Zorzoli, and not only does he create the dishes; he also supervises everything that comes out of his kitchen, making sure that each tastes truly of Italy. No Indian spices sneaking in here. All of the basic fruits and vegetables are locally-sourced from organic farms…even the edible flowers that they use for garnish. Many signature ingredients are imported. Even the espresso machine and coffee beans are imported from the motherland; and special courses are given to the staff on how to make the perfect cappuccino! Nothing at this restaurant is left to chance.

We eased into the evening relaxing in the hotel’s lounge, ordering the Indian version of sparkling wine that we love: Rosé for me, Brut for Leon. In fact, the lounge is where we met Marsh, our guide for the rest of the evening. He didn’t like the look of the pour of my wine, (not sparkling enough for him!) Before I even took my first sip, he opened a new bottle for me to remedy the situation. (Told you the guy has skills.) As we were chatting with Marsh, he told us about the restaurant he loved so much and asked if we’d like for him to make reservations for later in the evening after we’d had our quiet time. We, of course, said yes. About 45 minutes later, we headed over, and the hostess already knew exactly who we were, ushering us to a large, but cozy booth in the corner with a view of the large open-kitchen.

Our waitress, Sushmita, walked over with two glasses of exactly what we were drinking in the lounge earlier, saying that the restaurant wanted to make sure our night was perfect. I instantly fell in love not only with the restaurant, but also with Marsh, who had orchestrated everything, and with our adorable waitress, who is so friendly and great at her job that you can’t help but be happy in her presence.

We started dinner off with the Burrata, one of my favorites, this time served with tear-drop tomatoes and a fresh basil and balsamic vinaigrette. Organically farmed especially for the restaurant, it was a creamy and perfect way to get to know the head chef’s style. Our pasta course was equally delicious, a tagliolini with a lovely, light tomato sauce and pecorino cheese…the flavors were so delicate, so subtle and sooooo Italian.

We took about a 20-minute pause before the main course, just to enjoy hanging out. Marsh appeared at our table with their signature cocktail, “The Godfather Negroni.” It starts with distilled neutral spirits, herbs, spices and bitters, blended together, then aged in a wine barrel for at least five months. The coolest part of this drink though, is what they do when they’re ready to serve one. They pour the aged liquor into a decanter and shoot cherry-wood smoke into the bottle before stoppering it, allowing it to sit for 5-10 minutes so that the smoke enhances and blends all the flavors together. Then, they serve it to you in a crystal, whisky tumbler over a giant ball of ice. As Marsh poured it, the smoke crept into the glass as well. It was like the best “Bill Nye, Science Guy” episode ever! And then, quietly Marsh slipped away, leaving us alone to finish our romantic dinner.

My husband and I spent at least the next 15 minutes just talking to each other about how amazing this restaurant was. And what a charmed night it had been. We really reveled in all the specialness of this place,saying to ourselves, “I think we might just have found our new home away from home.” The second we were ready for the main course, it appeared…as if by magic.

For our main, we had their signature fish dish. Branzino is a gorgeous, flaky white fish often served throughout Italy, and when cooked properly, it is delicate and rich, flavorful and subtle — all at the same time. This one did not disappoint! Wrapped in parchment paper purses like little goodie bags, the fish was accompanied by a beautiful melànge of roasted vegetables. Every bite…simply perfect.

Another pause and then Marsh asked us wandered back over and asked us if we’d like to see the lounge and private dining room upstairs over coffee. Of course we said yes. The top floor is loft-like, overlooking the main dining room with a long rectangular bar that runs the length of one wall. Their head bartender, Tejas, has something of a name here in Mumbai, having won several bartending competitions. He prepared us a couple of after-dinner specialty drinks: lightning Sambuca for Leon, something with Baileys for me. And we snuggled up on the sofa in the corner and waiting for our desserts.

We tried one of everything: chocolate salami (their signature dessert), tiramisu, chocolate fondant, homemade panna cotta, and about three others…by this time I was so full, I was almost asleep. All of the desserts were wonderful. But, if you forced me to choose, I would have to say that the chocolate fondant was my favorite: molten, dark chocolate center of a dark chocolate cake, rich, but not too sweet, with just the right amount of bitterness and tang to complement the sweetness of the freshly whipped cream. Every bite, a little taste of heaven.

Leon and I snuggled together on the sofa for quite a while, and reveled in what a wonderful night this had been — and how charmed we felt that we were given this wonderful gift.

As we left the building, the doorman bowed deeply and asked how we had enjoyed ourselves. I told him we loved every, single minute. He smiled this beautiful, huge smile, looked me right in the eyes, and said, “I hope you will consider us as your second home, away from home.”  All I could think was, “We already do.”

If you’d like to see the tripadvisor link to Romano’s: https://www.tripadvisor.in/Restaurant_Review-g304554-d8408070-Reviews-Romano_s-Mumbai_Bombay_Maharashtra.html

If you’d like to look at the zomato’s review of Romano’s, it’s here: https://www.zomato.com/mumbai/romanos-jw-marriott-mumbai-sahar-chakala

Janmashtami Festival (aka: Krishna’s 5,243rd birthday)

The Festivals, Uncategorized2 Comments

Well, we’ve already had our first festival — and it was a really fun one. August 25 was the 5,243rd birthday of a very naughty little boy who grew up to be a god. His name is Lord Krishna, and Hindus believe he is the 16th incarnation of Lord Vishnu (and a very powerful incarnation at that). It is believed that he was sent by Vishnu to defend the powerless against corrupt and abusive kings and rulers. (Interestingly, Krishna wasn’t always considered a god, but over the years he has become accepted as one.)

Now, onto the naughty part.

Legend has it that as a child, Krishna loved yogurt (called curd in India). In fact, he loved it SO much that he would go digging into his neighbors’ supply to eat theirs — sometimes breaking their clay pots in the process. FYI: Lord Krishna was also very naughty as an adult, loving women almost as much as dairy. He is rumored to have juggled more than 16,000 girlfriends…Talk about Mischief.  Anyway…

August 25th was his birthday, and it is marked by a festival of great partying and a little mischief over…you guessed it…yogurt!  Since Krishna loved curd so much, the people of India have created a fun competition called “Matki.”  This festival serves as a reminder to always keep your inner child alive and joyful. I love the concept of that. And I am absolutely certain that Krishna would have loved it as well.

To begin the competition, small, clay pots of curd are suspended from cranes, strung very high up in tree branches, or even stretched between two windows of a high-rise apartment building. Then, teams of men from all over the world try to create human pyramids so tall that the “Top Man” of the pyramid will be able to break the clay pot filled with yogurt, covering themselves in the process.

The reward for all this effort and mess? Apart from the sheer joy of it, the winning teams split money — sometimes, big money.  All the neighbors in each area gather up a collection. Then, all sorts of teams (some even coming in from other countries) scout the entire city, searching for the many clay pots hanging at different heights throughout Mumbai, deciding which will be their target.

The higher the clay pot is suspended, the bigger the jackpot! There are hundreds of these pots hanging all over Mumbai. The teams can win anywhere from one to two Lakh (around $1,650-$3,300) for pots at a height of 20-25 feet. But, for the highest pots around 40-50 feet in the air, the teams can win up to 25 Lakh (roughly $37,000). To give you an idea of how big a deal that is…India’s average net income is less than $1,400 per year.

For the human pyramids to reach the tallest pots, they must balance 9-10 tiers of people, with each tier standing on the others’ shoulders. Those teams can win up to 25 Lakh, (roughly $37,000). But remember, since they would have to split it amongst the entire team (sometimes as many as 200 people) that translates to roughly $185 per competitor.

As I said, some of these pyramids get up to 9 or 10 tiers high or higher, so this is a fairly dangerous game. And, just to make it more interesting…They turn a firehose on the teams once they get close to their goal (or pour buckets on them from the upper floors, or spray water from an irrigation truck). All of this is designed to make the competitors lose their balance, slip and fall. This only adds to the chaos (and the amusement of all the spectators).

One “not so fun” bit of information: In days past, the “Top Man” was always a boy of around 6-8 years old, used for his light weight, but they kept breaking their arms and legs (and other things) when they fell. So this year, officials put a requirement into place that all competitors had to be 18-years or older. However, I personally watched a five-year-old “Top Man” compete today, so I’m guessing that’s more of a suggestion than a rule.

Back to the fun stuff…If the Top Man breaks the pot with a stick, the team gets covered in the yogurt. Whichever team does this, gets the money and are declared the victors! The entire competition is a day-long affair filled with drums, cheering, chanting…And, of course, car horns. Everywhere, car horns…all the time. Car horns are a very big deal here.

One of the blessings for Janmashtami that I found is something I would love to give to all of you. “May Lord Krishna bless you abundantly, and lead you to a prosperous life, with all of its delights.”

I love watching the pure joy and limitless excitement of this scary, crazy, LOUD celebration. It makes me so look forward to participating all of the festivals that are observed here. What a joyful place. Wishing all of you all of the warm wishes of Krishna Janmashtami 2016, and…

Thank you, God, for the craziness of this amazing city. If Paris is “the City of Light,” Mumbai must be “the City of Energy!”

#FestivalofKrishna #Breakingthepot #Energyofindia

Mumbai…The First 20 Minutes

The Poverty, Uncategorized24 Comments

There are many wondrous things about India, and about Mumbai in particular: its rich history and culture, the kindness of its people, the innate spirituality that exists here, not to mention the incredible food which everyone seems to take for granted. Those all deserve their own articles, and I will write them at some point. Only one topic, however, makes any kind of sense to me for my first story here…the ride from the Mumbai airport.

The Mumbai airport feels just like any other. It’s huge, clean, and impersonal. It’s not even that crowded. But once you get your driver, load your luggage and start the journey north to your guest house or apartment, you stumble upon a different world. Barely outside of the chain link fence that surrounds the airport, lies a chasm of humanity. Trust me, you can never be prepared for this. Even if you think you’ve seen poverty, even if you’ve been warned about how bad it can be, you can never be prepared for this.

These slums are so extreme that at first, you can’t even cry. You just sit there, staring out the window of the car — in shock. It’s a crushing poverty on a scale that the human mind cannot comprehend at first. On either side of the roadway are miles and miles of ramshackle huts, patched together out of paper, plastic and corrugated tin. They are filthy, rusted out, flat-roofed shacks that use blue tarps and chunks of wood to keep the monsoons from soaking the people inside.

It’s impossible to capture this area in a photograph. It’s like the Grand Canyon that way. In fact, that is exactly what it feels like — a Grand Canyon of abject poverty. The sight of it pulls at your heart until you can almost feel it cramping up from the visceral pain of taking it all in.

After the first ten minutes or so when the shock finally loosens its grip on you, you start to look closer. If you’re very lucky, you’ll start to notice something. You’ll notice that this slum is actually a community — a functional community. You’ll see kids playing, laughing, running over and around the mounds of garbage that surround the metal boxes where they live. You’ll peek inside some of them (because some have no doors) and you’ll see a person with a barber chair, giving their neighbors haircuts. You’ll see a Biryani stand where all sorts of people, old and young are gathered around, eating that delicious rice dish together. You’ll see a man hanging his laundry out to dry on rusted barb wire fencing, while a few women wander the fruit stands that their neighbors have set up, looking for the best of what’s left, laughing with each other and talking.

And then it will hit you.

These people, these wonderful people, have built a community together in the midst of all this. They’ve rigged up lighting inside some of the huts. They work together, take care of each other. And the city of Mumbai doesn’t try to hide them. The poor aren’t invisible here. Maybe in a way, that’s progress. They are free to coexist.

I’m not saying that the poorest of the city are chronically happy or blessed. I’m not an idiot. There are people who use them, who abuse them. There’s a begging syndicate that is run on the backs of some of these people which is sinister in its brutality. (I’ll be writing about that later.)

But what makes me feel a bit better about the poverty in India, is that these people are given the freedom to coexist. They aren’t hidden away. Some are right in your face, begging for change in the middle of the street. Some set up temporary barber shops on the corner, using plastic buckets for their barber chairs and scraps of mirror hung on telephone poles so their clients can watch them work. Some have chaat stands, selling street food to their neighbors. They have a community. They work together, laugh together, do business together.

That’s the best way I’ve found to handle the weight of the crushing poverty here. You must realize that simply because they are poor, doesn’t mean that they are unhappy. If you don’t remember that…you’ll break.

A Grand Canyon of abject poverty…that’s true. That is the best way I know how to describe it. But there is beauty in the corners of this canyon. And I’m determined to find it.

#beautyintheashes #grandcanyonofpoverty #mumbaispoorest